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In Advance of a Culinary Review

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Now that cuisine is finally making its way into an expanded aesthetic realm, and now that aesthetics has become a totally international domain, a certain rethinking of art criticism in the light of gastronomy is in order. In a sense, Daniel Spoerri not only understood the formal issues of tilting plane surfaces, but also the existential ones concerning the possible transformations of a dish, destined not to become still life, but vanitas. A beauty ephemeral, when the pleasure of gourmandise causes all form and thoughts of formalism to collapse, all niceties to be set aside, such that the vestiges of formalism are ultimately dissolved in the intensity of time passing and taste fading, to be inscribed as recipe and revived as memory, awaiting the next meal.
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Keywords: Clement Greenberg; Daniel Boulud; Daniel Spoerri; French cuisine; Hashimoto Kenichi; Nouvelle Cuisine

Document Type: Research Article

Affiliations: NYU

Publication date: August 3, 2013

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  • artUS magazine collects international art criticism and is celebrated for its critical vigour and uncompromised perspective. Presenting new art reviews, essays and features, the magazine has gained a loyal following among scholars of international contemporary art and culture for its established yet alternative approach to the American and international art scenes. As a critical and academic alternative to the more commercially driven popular arts magazines, artUS is one of the world's leading academic resources for vibrant and uncensored critical discussion. This collector's edition gathers the print versions of artUS magazine's issues 31 through 33 and features texts on Grant Wood, Cannibal Holocaust, Buddhist art, Paul Thek, John Currin, Alexander McQueen, Cloning Terror, Marlene McCarty, Tóhoku, Occupy movements, Ed Kienholz, The Language of Objects in the Art of the Americas, philosophy of shadows, Boris Lurie, food as art and mummy movies.
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