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Stabilization of Labile Active Ingredients in an Oil-Water Emulsion Cosmetics by Freeze-Drying

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BACKGROUND: Due to the instability in oil/water emulsion, certain labile active ingredients were often not used in cosmetics. OBJECTIVE: The present study has tested the effect of freeze-drying to stabilize an oil/water cosmetic emulsion. MATERIALS AND METHODS: A preliminary freezedrying process was established at the basis of calorimetric and freeze-drying microscope studies. The stability of labile molecules in the cosmetic emulsion was evaluated at 48°C after freeze-drying. RESULTS: The accelerated stability experiment showed that the freeze-dried emulsion retained 90.1% vitamin C after 28 days at 48°C, whereas the oil-water emulsion retained only 28.3% vitamin C. The freeze-dried emulsion had significantly less oil oxidation than did the oil-water emulsion. CONCLUSION: Freeze-drying improved the stability of vitamin C and oily active ingredients in cosmetic emulsions.


Document Type: Research Article

Affiliations: Institute of Biothermal Science and Technology, University of Shanghai for Science and Technology, 516 Jungong Road, Shanghai 200093, China

Publication date: March 1, 2023

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  • CryoLetters is a bimonthly international journal for low temperature sciences, including cryobiology, cryopreservation or vitrification of cells and tissues, chemical and physical aspects of freezing and drying, and studies involving ecology of cold environments, and cold adaptation

    The journal publishes original research reports, authoritative reviews, technical developments and commissioned book reviews of studies of the effects produced by low temperatures on a wide variety of scientific and technical processes, or those involving low temperature techniques in the investigation of physical, chemical, biological and ecological problems.

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