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Kinetics of moisturizing and firming effects of cosmetic formulations

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Synopsis The assessment of cosmetic efficacy is rarely performed in studies comparing different concentrations of active compounds. The aim of the present study was to determine the skin hydrating and the skin firming dose–response effects of cosmetic formulations enriched in compounds derived from algae and fish collagen. A series of factors were studied including the type of formulation (cream or serum), the concentration in active ingredients, the effect of repetitive applications, as well as any residual effect of the formulations after stopping their applications. The serum enriched in marine compounds showed a better moisturizing effect in short term. The cream appeared more active later, particularly following repeat applications. A sustained tensor (firming) effect was observed during treatment with both the lotion and the cream. However, no remnant firming effect was perceived after stopping treatment.


L’évaluation de l’efficacité cosmétique est rarement réalisée au cours d’études comparant différentes concentrations en actifs. Le but de cette étude était de déterminer les effets dose–réponse de nature hydratante et tenseur de formulations cosmétiques enrichies de composants extraits d’algues et de collagène de poisson. Divers facteurs ont étéétudiés parmi lesquels le type de formulation (crème ou sérum), la concentration en ingrédients actifs, l’effet d’applications répétitives, ainsi que l’effet résiduel des formulations après cessation des applications. Le sérum enrichit en composants marins avait un meilleur effet hydratant à court terme. La crème est apparue plus active par après, particulièrement à la suite d’applications répétitives. Un effet tenseur (« liftant ») persistant a été observé pendant le traitement avec la crème et le sérum. Cependant, aucun effet tenseur persistant n’a été perçu après l’arrêt des traitements.
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Keywords: firming effect; kinetics of cosmetic efficacy; marine product; moisturization; stratum corneum

Document Type: Research Article

Publication date: April 1, 2008

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