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A new makeup remover prepared with a system comprising dual continuous channels (bicontinuous phase) of silicone oil and water

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Removing makeup is considered to be the first step in the skincare process. Makeup that has served its purpose is a kind of impurity that should ideally be removed completely to maximize the effects of skincare products applied afterwards. However, the use of silicone resins has significantly improved the long-lasting property of makeup with the result that makeup can hardly be removed efficiently either with surfactant-type cleansers like soaps or with oil-based cleansers like liquid crystalline cleansers. Furthermore, oil-based makeup removers do not leave the skin feeling fresh but oily, and often have been used in combination with surfactant-type cleansers. In other words, complete makeup removal and a fresh skin feel are considered to be incompatible in conventional formulation technologies. To obtain compatible systems, we investigated the applicability of a system known as the bicontinuous phase and eventually succeeded in developing a novel system for a makeup remover. This phase can be prepared with a specific composition with a complete hydrophilic-lipophilic balance in an oil/surfactant/water system by using cyclo-siloxane, which dissolves silicone resin well. The bicontinuous phase has an oil- and water-continuous microstructure, showing affinity for both aqueous and oily substances. This bicontinuous phase was applied to the development of a novel makeup remover. Determination of remover cap-ability and fresh skin feel revealed that the makeup could be completely removed and that the amount of oil remaining on skin surface after wash-off was much less than with previous oil-based removers. The results of the sensory test also supported the finding that the remover was far superior to conventional products. This makeup remover is the first example of the application of the bicontinuous phase technology to a cosmetic product and clearly seems to provide the best conditions for subsequent skin care, meaning that it is suitable for the first step in the skincare process.
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Keywords: Bicontinuous; cleansing; hydrophilic-lipophilic balance; makeup remover; phase diagram

Document Type: Research Article

Affiliations: 1: Shiseido Co., Research Center, Hayabuchi 2-2-1, Tsuzuki-ku, Yokohama, 224-8558 Japan 2: Faculty of Education & Human Science, Niigata University, Igarashi, Nino-cho 8050, Niigata, 950-2181 Japan

Publication date: April 1, 2005

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