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Soft press: the ultra-low pressure molding technology for powder cosmetics

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Pressed-powder cosmetics with an extremely soft and light sense of touch were prepared using a novel ultra-low pressure molding technology. These novel pressed-powder cosmetics have a very high porosity creating a light silky feeling. Furthermore, with this novel molding, large quantities of organic crystalline powder can be incorporated into the cosmetics resulting in a good spreadability and smooth sense of touch. The novel molding technology named soft press molding developed in the current study involves several characteristic stages: (i) mixing the binder dispersion; (ii) soft compression; and (iii) drying (volatilizing a disperse medium). The first process is the mixing of water-repellent powder with an aqueous dispersion of elastic film-forming polymer into a pendular or funicular state. After compressing and drying, an interspersed polymer effectively combines the particles forming contact between the particles. In this study, calcium lauroyl taurate (CaLT) was used as an example of an organic crystalline powder to provide a silky smooth sense of touch to a powdery foundation. CaLT particles deform to a thin layer readily when applied to skin, creating a smooth pleasing sensation while spreading. Conventional high-pressure molding causes deformation during compression resulting in hard-caking of the molded cosmetics. However, by using soft press molding, the powdery foundation can contain more than 30 wt% of CaLT without hard-caking, and the resultant powdery foundation expresses an extremely smooth sensation to the touch. Furthermore, this powdery foundation shows a natural finish approximating bare skin due to the deformation of a thin layer on application restricting the light scattering, a characteristic property of a powder.
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Document Type: Abstract

Affiliations: 1: Kao Corporation, Tokyo Research Laboratory, 2-1-3, Bunka, Sumida-ku, Tokyo 131-8501, Japan 2: Kao Corporation, Wakayama Research Laboratory, 1334, Minato, Wakayama, 640-8580, Japan

Publication date: December 1, 2004

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