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New and unexpected cosmetic properties of perfumes. Effects upon free radicals and enzymes induced by essential oils, absolutes and fragrant compounds

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Synopsis

The biological properties of several different perfume components have been investigated. It has been demonstrated, through appropriate test methods, that essential oils, absolutes and even compounds show significant (anti/pro)-radical, (anti/pro)-elastasic and (anti/pro)-tyrosinasic activities.

These unexpected properties open up new opportunities for the formulation of cosmetic products and could contribute to the understanding of activities traditionally attributed to essential oils by Aromatherapy.

Résumé

Les propriétés biologiques de plusieurs composants différents utilisés en parfumerie ont étéétudiées. On a montré, à l’aide de méthodes expérimentales appropriées, que les huiles essentielles, les absolues et même des compositions parfumantes présentent des activités significatives pro- ou antiradicalaires, pro- ou antiélastasiques et pro- ou antityrosinasiques.

Ces propriétés innattendues offrent de nouvelles opportunités pour la formulation des produits cosmétiques et pourraient contribuer à la compréhension des activités traditionnellement attribuées aux huiles essentielles par l’Aromathérapie.
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Keywords: absolutes; elastasic activity; essential oils; free radical scavengers; tyrosinasic activity

Document Type: Research Article

Affiliations: 1: Cosmopolitan Cosmetics, Parfums ROCHAS, rue d’Aigremont 75, 78300 Poissy, France, 2: INOCOSM, Chatenay-Malabry, France, 3: ENSSPICAM, Marseille, France

Publication date: October 1, 2000

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