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Characterization of the mineral content of a physical sunscreen emulsion and its distribution onto human stratum corneum

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When using physical sunscreens, protection and aesthetic aspects are directly related to particle size and mineral distribution onto skin. These investigations aimed to characterize the different mineral raw materials entering into the composition of a specific sunscreen emulsion and to assess the distribution of the sunscreeen agents at the surface of human stratum corneum. X‐ray diffractometry revealed the crystallographic features of the TiO2 and ZnO crystals. Frequency distributions of crystal length and aspect ratio were determined for the zinc oxide which presented the largest particle size and varying shapes. Scanning and transmission electron microscopy disclosed structural information. The results reported in this study specify the characteristics of the oxide particles involved in the formulation and show a satisfactory mineral distribution along the irregular topography of the skin. No intracellular penetration was noted. Resume. Lorsqu'on utilise des ecrans mineraux dans un produit cosmetique, la photoprotection et les aspects esthetiques sont directement tributaires de la taille des particules et de leur repartition spatiale a la surface de la peau. L'objectif de ce travail etait de caracteriser les differentes phases minerales entrant dans la composition d'une emulsion antisolaire specifique et d'evaluer la distribution des elements photoprotecteurs a la surface du stratum corneum humain. La technique de diffraction des rayons X a ete utilisee pour fournir des donnees cristallographiques relatives auz TiO2 et ZnO employes. Les distributions statistiques des longueurs des cristaux et des rapports de la longueur a la largeur ont ete determinees pour l'oxyde de zinc, qui presente la plus grande taille de particules et des formes variables. Des informations structurales ont ete obtenues par microscopie electronique a balayage et a transmission. Les resultats de cette etude precisent les caracteristiques des particules minerales employees dans la preparation et montrent que la distribution cristalline le long du microrelief cutane est satisfaisante. Aucune penetration intracellulaire des cristaux n'a ete notee.
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Document Type: Research Article

Affiliations: 1: Centre de Recherche Dermo-Cosmetique Pierre Fabre, Allee Camille-Soula, Vigoulet-Auzil Castanet Tolosan Cedex France 2: INSERM U.424, 11 rue Humann Strasbourg Cedex France

Publication date: June 1, 1997

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