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Perturbed orbital model applied to surface gravity waves

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A point mass rotating and vibrating on one end of an idealized spring, fixed at the other end, is studied when the plane of motion is vertical and gravity is acting downward. In magnitude, the gravity force is taken small compared with the spring force. Calculations involving the force balance method and an energy budget predict that the general shape of the orbit has a slight top/bottom asymmetry: more pointed on top and blunter on the bottom. This asymmetry in the particle orbits is consistent with the wave profiles of propagating surface gravity waves which have often been observed to have narrow crests and broad troughs. It has not been possible theoretically to find the exact shape of the orbits by known analytical methods because of the interference of the gravity torque acting on the mass.
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Keywords: Fluid Particle Orbits; Surface Gravity Waves

Document Type: Research Article

Publication date: 30 December 2013

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  • Physics Essays has been established as an international journal dedicated to theoretical and experimental aspects of fundamental problems in Physics and, generally, to the advancement of basic knowledge of Physics. The Journal's mandate is to publish rigorous and methodological examinations of past, current, and advanced concepts, methods and results in physics research. Physics Essays dedicates itself to the publication of stimulating exploratory, and original papers in a variety of physics disciplines, such as spectroscopy, quantum mechanics, particle physics, electromagnetic theory, astrophysics, space physics, mathematical methods in physics, plasma physics, philosophical aspects of physics, chemical physics, and relativity.
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