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The POSEIDON Nearshore Wave Model and its Application to the Prediction of the Wave Conditions in the Nearshore/Coastal Region of the Greek Seas

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Abstract:

In the present work, the Poseidon Nearshore Wave Model (PNWM) developed in the framework of the POSEIDON project1, and its application to the prediction of the wave conditions in nearshore/coastal regions of Greek seas is presented. The PNWM is based on a one-way energy coupling between a third-generation, phase-averaged, nearshore wave model and a local phase-resolving model, nested in the first model. The local wave model is supported by the consistent coupled-mode theory, based on an enhanced local-mode representation of the wave velocity field, which except for the propagating and the evanescent modes includes an additional mode, permitting the exact satisfaction of the sloping-bottom boundary condition, even in areas with locally steep bottom slope and large curvature. Thus, three-dimensional diffraction effects are fully treated in the local nested area. Numerical results are presented demonstrating the application of the PNWM to nearshore and coastal sites of the Greek seas.

Keywords: Coastal region; Diffraction; Shallow water; Wave model

Document Type: Research Article

DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/10236730290004085

Affiliations: Department of Naval Architecture and Marine Engineering, National Technical University of Athens, PO Box 64033 Zografos, 15710 Athens, Greece

Publication date: January 1, 2002

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