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A Novel Method for Generating Continuously Surfable Waves

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This paper presents the background and initial investigation of a novel method for generating continuously surfable waves utilizing a moving pressure source. The idea is to produce continuous breaking waves using a pressure source that is rotated within an annular wave pool. The inner ring of the annulus has a sloping bathymetry to induce wave breaking. The underlying aim of the project is to understand the wave mechanics, to allow the creation of repeatable continuous “steady-state” waves.

The immediate benefits of this scientific investigation will be realized by engineering the results into a surfing wave pool for recreational health use. The longer-term benefits will be developed through fundamental investigations of breaking waves.

Preliminary experiments into creating a continuous steady-state wave were conducted in a towing tank using a series of pressure sources. The results have then been used to validate an initial numerical study. In addition, qualitative, full-scale experiments were carried out using a fishing vessel in a river estuary. This paper reports on the research conducted to date and plans for future work, including conducting experiments utilizing a 10-metre-diameter scale model.

Keywords: Numerical modeling; Surfing; Testing; Wave pool

Document Type: Research Article


Publication date: March 1, 2010

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  • The Marine Technology Society Journal is the flagship publication of the Marine Technology Society. It publishes the highest caliber, peer-reviewed papers on subjects of interest to the society: marine technology, ocean science, marine policy and education. The Journal is dedicated to publishing timely special issues on emerging ocean community concerns while also showcasing general interest and student-authored works.
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