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Free Content Set-down computations over an arbitrarily inclined plane bed

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A perturbation theory, for waves on a perfect fluid in a wedge-shaped domain, is used to derive integral expressions for set-down valid up to the breaker line for arbitrary wedge angles α. Computations are carried out for a set α = π/2N, (N = 2,3,…,7,15) using a generalized Simpson quadrature and these confirm that existing theory underestimates the set-down by a factor which increases with the wedge angle. Curve fitting techniques are used to deduce a modification of the formula given by Longuet-Higgins and Stewart (1963) which can be universally implemented to estimate set-down just seaward of the breaker line. It is also noted that farther seaward the mean free surface begins to oscillate spatially, and the possible ramifications of this are discussed.
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Document Type: Research Article

Publication date: 1994-11-01

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  • The Journal of Marine Research publishes peer-reviewed research articles covering a broad array of topics in physical, biological and chemical oceanography. Articles that deal with processes, as well as those that report significant observations, are welcome. In the area of biology, studies involving coupling between ecological and physical processes are preferred over those that report systematics. Authors benefit from thorough reviews of their manuscripts, where an attempt is made to maximize clarity. The time between submission and publication is kept to a minimum; there is no page charge.
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