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Observation of irregular wave transformation in the surf zone over a gently sloping sandy beach on the French Atlantic coastline

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Keywords: cross-shore approach; dissipation des vagues; infragravity waves; ondes basse frequence; profil transversal; spectre de densite d'energie; wave dissipation; wave spectra

Document Type: Research Article

DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0399-1784(01)01171-9

Affiliations: Department of Geology and Oceanography, UMR CNRS 5805, University of Bordeaux I, 33405, Talence, France

Publication date: November 1, 2001

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