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Between Studio and Catwalk—Artists in Fashion Magazines

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Abstract:

Looking at photographs of artists in their studios during the 1940s and 1950s, fashion spreads of artists as models in the 1960s and the early 1970s and in current fashion spreads, this article traces the shifting modes of representation from studio to catwalk. Paying attention to magazines as “instruction manuals,” the term “model” is used to understand the staging of the artist. In looking closely at how images of artists are integrated in the magazines’ layout, it is argued that fashion magazines assign a creative potential to the artist, which first is connected to their work in the studio but which also extends to include the self-creation and reflection of the artists’ identity. This twofold creativity is variously staged, making the artists attractive to the readers and finally setting out a role model for them “on the catwalk.”

Keywords: Harper’s Bazaar; Vogue; art and fashion; fashion magazine; fashion photography; model

Document Type: Research Article

DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.2752/175174109X381337

Affiliations: Email: krausewa@uni-mainz.de

Publication date: March 1, 2009

More about this publication?
  • Fashion Theory takes as its starting point a definition of “fashion” as the cultural construction of the embodied identity. The importance of studying the body as a site for the deployment of discourses has been well established in a number of disciplines. Until Fashion Theorys launch in 1997 the dressed body had suffered from a lack of critical analysis. Increasingly scholars have recognized the cultural significance of self-fashioning, including not only clothing but also such body alterations as tattooing and piercing.

    Fashion Theory provides an international and interdisciplinary forum for the rigorous analysis of cultural phenomena. Its peer-reviewed articles range from foot-binding to fashion advertising.
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