Author: Arthur, Linda B.

Source: Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, Volume 2, Number 3, August 1998 , pp. 269-286(18)

Publisher: Berg Publishers

Abstract:

The Hawaiian holokū originated in 1820 as an adaptation of an American day gown. Using primary sources for research, the design evolution of this garment is traced from its origins to the 1990s. The holokū became ethnic Hawaiian dress, reached its zenith in design evolution at the turn of the century and that it continues to be symbolically significant due to cultural factors. First adopted in 1820 by Hawaiian queens, other Hawaiian women soon wore the holokū. An undergarment, referred to as mu'umu'u was introduced at the same time but developed into a casual day dress and is worn by women of any ethnic background. The contemporary holokū is a long formal gown with a train; it is definitive of Hawaiian ethnicity. Both garments continue to be very important in Hawai'i. While the mu'umu'u is regarded by those from outside the islands as Hawaiian dress, the lesser known holokū is more closely associated with Hawaiian ethnicity although it is virtually unknown outside of Hawai'i. Once worn by Hawaiian women as everyday wear, the holokū is now formal wear worn for ritual events related to Hawaiian ethnicity.

Document Type: Research article

DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.2752/136270498779476163

Publication date: 1998-08-01

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